I completed reassembling my Clone motor late last night so I thought I would test fire it. I will be taking it to the track to run tomorrow so I wanted to make sure everything was in good order. There are several products I have installed since I tore down my engine for a rebuild. Not as many as I would have liked to install but as many as I could at this time. I will blog more in detail about this later. The video shows my test fire and the throttle responsiveness. This motor is way under carbureted as it should have a Tillotson carb on it. I would be running that carb and running the motor on alcohol but I don’t have any extra throttle linkage sitting around and Saturday is already here.
Just to give you a little background. I am not currently racing, so this is not a cheater motor. It is way to modified to pass under anybody’s nose at the track. This is just for fun. I have another motor I plan to build for racing purposes and hope to blog more in length about that as well. For now, enjoy the test fire video. I hope to be able to blog more often after I get my garage in order and have more time on my hands.
This Honda Clone engine includes the following:
- DynoCams .275 lift camshaft – Product Link
- ARC Billet Rod 3.323″ center-to-center – Product Link
- Standard Bore Flat Top Honda Piston – Product Link
- Honda Clone Open Head (See notes below) – Product Link
- Dual Valve Springs – Product Link
I am still running the stock flywheel and I have not advanced the timing. I am running gas still so I did not want to advance the timing and then have an overheating motor. I have an ARCRacing Billet Adjustable Flywheel but I did not pay attention to the fact that you can not mount the recoil starter on that flywheel. I will be returning and exchanging that flywheel for the fixed flywheel. As long as I can still run the compression release on that cam I would rather pull start the motor and avoid electric start. I also plan to install a Wiseco piston, the Tillotson and possibly a bigger camshaft.
The Honda Clone Open Head is essentially the same as what DynoCams offers. I ported the head and had Big Valves Installed by a machinist. I actually own one of their heads but I have yet to run it. I wanted to try my own creation first. If you are wondering if the head with all of that work done to it is worth the money, I would say yes. No matter what you do to your engine or carb you are still forcing all of that air/fuel through a small port and forcing exhaust out of a small port as well.